Color Me Bonita - Anti-Aging Yay or Nay

Our skin care expert Daniela is back today to address a often asked question. I know I stand in the moisturizer aisle for what seems like hours trying to figure out what I need!

What's so special about anti-aging products and when should I start to use them?

I'm going to tell you the Big Dirty Secret about anti-aging :  of ALL the anti-aging ingredients, there are only TWO that are preventative as well as corrective - sunscreen and topical antioxidant serums.  All others are only corrective, not preventative.

Which means if you don't have any fine lines or wrinkles yet, no corrective product will prevent them.  The only thing that will, besides a broad-spectrum sunscreen ("broad-spectrum" means that it filters both UVA and UVB rays and must say so on the label), is something with multiple forms of antioxidants. Only one form in a product usually doesn't do the trick because different antioxidants interrupt the cascade of skin damage at different points.  Some of the best antioxidants to look for are, L-ascorbic acid or Magnesium Ascorbal Phosphate (stabilized forms of vitamin c), Sea Whip, Superoxide Dismutase, L-tocopherol (skin penetrating vitamin E), Beta Carotene, acai berry, and pomegranate.

For preventative measure, added moisture does nothing to prevent fine lines.  Fine lines and wrinkles do not form as a result of lack of moisture.  They form as a result of breakdown of the proteins that hold the skin up when damaged by sun, stress and trauma to the integrity of the skin.  Dryness can make existing lines look worse, but moisturizer is for hydration and softening only.  If a moisturizer has antioxidants, it will actually be effective at preventing and correcting aging issues.  But it will be the antioxidants giving the anti-aging benefit, not the emollients.

Whether you decide to use specifically anti-aging products or not, one of the best things you can do is become super religious with your SPF.  85-90% of aging we see on faces is from sun damage alone! And sun damage is cumulative - five minutes here, ten minutes there, walking back to work from lunch out, walking to the store, you must have sun protection at all times.  UV protection sunglasses are a must as well; they should cover as much of your eye area as possible, and must say "UV Protection" on the label.

As for puffiness, dark circles, and existing fine lines and wrinkles, there's nothing like the new Peptide technology for combatting all of these.  This class of ingredients is what makes up the entire Olay Regenerist line.  However, drugstore products tend to be quite weak in comparison to salon brands, which contain levels of active ingredients that are the same as levels the ingredients were tested at in the lab. 

I have also found that the fast majority of national brands that offer anti-aging products are completely inappropriate for those with adult acne or just oily skin. Unfortunately, many formulators, either being misinformed themselves or wanting to give consumers what they want, formulate according to the idea that lubricating emollients are needed to prevent aging, many of which are terribly pore clogging.

For help with the best formulated, potent and totally non-clogging anti-aging products, or any skin care products to help with any skin issues you may have, please visit my web site at www.daniela.com.  Receive 10% off your first order with discount code "CMS"!

(image via flickr)